MELBOURNE, Australia — It’s 9:30 on Sunday morning and at Stagger Lee’s, a cafe in the fashionable Melbourne suburb of Fitzroy, things are heating up. A young crowd, bleary-eyed and languid, is rolling up for coffee and eggs and all the other things that, depending on who you believe, are a perfect cure for the inevitable results of a well-spent Saturday night. Nobody, though, has bigger bags under their eyes than me. I’m battling jet lag, having arrived about 12 hours earlier. It’s a good city to be tired in, though; I’m here to find out about coffee in what, I’m assured, is just about the most coffee-obsessed place on Earth — and the home, some say, of the flat white, currently the world’s...
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